![]() ![]() I just played the CSN Audio Fidelity rip with the Bifrost straight and now with the Eitr. I lent my Eitr to a good friend last Saturday that has an original specification Schiit Bifrost, and as soon as he installed Eitr, he immediately texted me.this is, verbatim, the text message he sent me on Sunday: With Eitr, the Modi 2 Uber was completely transformed into a MUCH better-sounding DAC quiet, sweet-sounding and very musical. When my Gungnir finally had to go into Schiit for its upgrade, I used my Schiit Modi 2 Uber DAC, which without Eitr was an okay-sounding D/S DAC, but a bit thin and sterile-sounding using its USB input. All these years that Jason Stoddard and Mike Moffat of Schiit Audio said they didn't like the sound of USB vs SPDIF.I ignored those remarks, but they were absolutely, 100%, correct. ![]() It was not a small improvement it was a LARGE improvement in audio quality. I have an Eitr that I used with my Schiit Gungnir DAC while I was waiting in the queue for a Gen 5 USB upgrade for Gungnir, and the overall improvement that Eitr brought in audio quality for my Gungnir it made was very significant, so much so that in all three years I had owned my Gungnir, I realized never knew how good it actually sounded until I installed Eitr and ran my source input into a SPDIF input. ![]() Run your Ethernet cable from the Mini into Eitr and a good 75 ohm digital coax SPDIF cable into one of your DAC's SPDIF coax 75 ohm jacks. That being said, as you have two coax SPDIF digital inputs on your Teac UD-501 DAC, I would instead strongly recommend you consider getting the $179 Schiit Eitr USB to SPDIF convertor instead of any of these. I also have Uptone Audio's LPS-1 power supply for my Sonore microRendu, and it is an excellent product, so I'm confident the USB Regen is, too. I personally have not heard the Uptone Audio USB Regen, but I've read excellent reviews about it, including the article you referenced above. I would personally put the Wyrd's performance above the Jitterbug. Both reduce "grunge" and perform a USB "decrapification". You will need a philips screwdriver and a adjustment wrench / plier (for the locknut on the BNC connector).I've got both the Schiit Wyrd and AQ Jitterbug.This is very easy to do as the threads are soft aluminum or plastic. Have a good set of screwdrivers and use the right size bits.Leave the Gen 5 USB upgrade board in the anti-static bag until you actually need it.Don't do stupid shit like walk around and rub your socks on carpet.But in reality, no one is real life uses one, so ground yourself by touching the chassis of the Yggdrasil before you plug it. The advanced computering shit on the boards are sensitive to static discharge. Take electrostatic discharge precautions.The button is free floating and will fall off when the outer chassis is removed. The one tip I would have is to put painters tape over the source select button and chassis. There is no easy way to do so, and I just didn't bother because I found the LEDs too bright and preferred them slightly inside the chassis. The biggest difference is that there is no separate PCB / ribbon cable for the front panel lights / source selector, so you will need to align the LEDs which is a pain. The bottom, outer, inner chassis construction approach is the same. I have no idea if Schiit will allow a self install for the Gen USB board or not.Do this at your own risk! You screw it up, not my problem.Schiit Yggdrasil GEN 5 / Unison USB Board Upgrade Instructions ![]()
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